Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Fallingwater - 2nd Floor

As we recall, the first floor of Fallingwater is really just one huge living area the original "open concept" floor plan that you hear about all the time on House Hunters.  The bedrooms, bathrooms, offices, etc.  are all located on upper floors.  So you take these stairs to the second floor:
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and end up on this landing area:
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From this spot you run into more of the FLW mind control.  There is a long, dark hallway that leads to the private bedroom of Mrs. Kaufmann and the study of Mr. Kaufmann, and steep, unfriendly staircase that leads to a private study, a dark-ish hallway with a very bright light at the end, and the guest bedroom.  I wish I'd have captured this better, so you could really get the effect, but the basic notion is that instead of separating public/private space with doors or gates FLW separates them through psychological means.  You'd rather go down the hallway toward the light (which leads to the breezeway/stairs for the guest house), than the hallway that is dark.  You'd rather go into the bright room behind you (the guest room), than up the steep staircase (private study).   Psychologically it sorts you out instead of relying of physical barriers.  I thought that was fascinatingly brilliant.

Here is the guest room:
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A couple of things to note in this picture.  The bed is low, but just out of frame on the right is a wall of glass - windows and door to the guest terrace.  Lying on the bed you can actually look out over the terrace wall into the forest.  (Side note:  all the terrace walls are dangerously low.  Again, this house was built for a specific customer, a specific lifestyle, in a specific moment in time, and that means that this house is not child-friendly ... or a friend to the elderly or wobbly either.  It was meant for adults -  healthy, active adults.)

Also take note of the painting over the side-table.  It is a Diego Rivera original, and if my memory serves, was given to the Kaufmanns by Frida Kahlo (his wife, and their guest).  Almost every room in the house has very valuable artwork, Lalique crystal and glass, and Tiffany lamps and glass.  The Kaufmanns were definitely well to do.

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Tiffany glass, I can't remember if it is a lamp or just something pretty.  This guest room is the only room in the house that has blinds.  Mrs. Kaufmann wanted to give some privacy to her guests, especially since from her terrace you can see right into the guest room.

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Ventilation was a critical issue in a house built over a waterfall.  FLW used ventilation windows throughout the house, some in odd, but interesting places to help keep the wet, musty smell our of the house.

Back on the landing: if you walk down the hallway toward the bright light you run into this:
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Seriously I love the planter being both inside outside.  Like someone built the door around it.  There is also another boulder to the left of the frame that is original to the site.  As mentioned the house was built not just on a waterfall, but into a hillside.  A very wet hillside.  There were going to be constant problems of drainage and run-off down the hill.  During the spring run-off water was channeled down this boulder in the hallway (the rest of the hall was used for storage and such) and then out the over the driveway, down the hill.  FLW thought it easier to simply accommodate nature instead of attempting to thwart it.  Despite this the house is remarkably dry, and doesn't smell wet or mildew-y at all.

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Mrs. Kaufmann's bedroom.  You can see the bed reflected in the mirrored closet door.  The closets were custom built with wicker (looking at least) tray that helped ventilate the closet and keep moisture to a minimum.  Every bedroom had a desk, a built-in closet, and an en-suite bathroom.  The bathrooms were roped off, but we could look in them, but I didn't really take any bathroom photos.  Again, across from the closet is the wall that leads to the terrace.

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Taken from Mrs. Kaufmann's private terrace.  You can see her view from bed as well as how alarmingly low the wall is.  You should also keep in mind that you can hear the rush of the waterfall from every room in the house, from every window, every terrace, everywhere.  It is the music you listened to all day.

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Both this picture and the next two were taken from Mrs. Kaufmann's terrace looking at the second floor.  The top picture looks primarily back into her bedroom.  You can see that she had greenery (rather than blinds) for privacy-they cover the dressing room/bathroom window.  You can also see that in reality the guest room and her room are next to each other, but from inside they feel (thank to FLW mind control) feel miles apart and completely private.

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The guest room has its own terrace with a little table and chairs. It is also set at an angle that means the guests cannot see into Mrs. Kaufmann's bedroom.

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It really feels like you walked a mile to go from guest bedroom, to her bedroom.  When I went on the terrace and saw that they were right next to each other ... MIND CONTROL.

Here are some photos looking from Mrs. Kaufmann's terrace down toward the main floor.
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This view looks through those weird doors in the living room clear down to the river.

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Looking back over to the bridge you cross to reach the house.  This group taking pictures was the next group in the house.  Up until this point we had the house to ourselves.  It was wonderful.

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Oh hey, I did take a picture of a bathroom!  This is Mrs. Kaufmann's dressing room and bathroom.  FLW used cork (which only become popular years later) as the best bathroom material, a natural way to combat moisture problems.

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Why yes, that is an original Picasso in Mrs. Kaufmann's bedroom.

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Lalique glass on the bedside table.

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...And a Tiffany lamp to top off the room.

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Close up of the lamp, but I want you to also notice how the glass just blends into the stone.  No metal flashing or rivets.  Just perfectly cut and placed glass.

Even further down the long dark hallway is Mr. Kaufmann's study. There was a built-in desk that didn't allow the window to open.  Unacceptable to FLW, but what was unacceptable to Mr. Kaufmann was giving up desk space for a stupid window.  The compromise:
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AWESOME!  A perfectly measured cut-out for the window to swing open.

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So these next couple of shots illustrate my favorite part of the whole house.  There is a central column of windows that runs the height of the house.  All told there are (I believe) seventeen of these windows.  FLW believed in thinking outside the box.  The box being a normally built little box of a building.  These windows opened outward, the screens opened inward, and because they were set on a corner the whole column could be completely opened to the air.  He called this little feature "exploding the box".
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The pictures don't even do justice to how actually AMAZING this feature is. Seriously.

Here again is a picture that shows the whole central column. See in the second section the chair against the glass?
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There is the corner of it.
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And again, the blurring of the line between inside and outside.  That next group has made it out onto the main terrace by this time.
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We'll come back to talk about that steep forbidding staircase after we visit the the third floor.  We accessed floor number three by going out on Mr. Kaufmann's private terrace.

Looking back at the main terrace from Mr. Kaufmann's second floor terrace.
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I love looking at the house from the view on this terrace.  This house is absolutely amazing from every. single. angle.  LOVE!

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We came out the red door on the bottom, and went in the red door on the top.  Also, for the record - I really, really love the zig-zag look of this exterior staircase.

Up to the third floor:
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Monday, February 13, 2012

Non-Event

I had the doctor's appointment with the kidney guy this morning, and the key thing here is:  It is a ginormous cyst (5cm), yes, but it is a non-event.  After calmly going through all the stages kidney cysts could be, and the increasing risk of cancer they carried, he said, "You're a 1.  I'm gonna tell you to watch it, but you don't actually have to watch it."

Basically if it causes any symptoms  (kidney doc confirms surgeon - it looks like it was all gall bladder) that continue more than 3 months after surgery (and that is extremely unlikely) than I should see him again.  If not, live long and prosper...although now without all  my original parts.

Side note:  So, it turns out that a week after surgery - if I am forced to wear real clothes, I am in agony.  This is kind of surprising to me.  I half expected to be fully up and around after a few days.

Funny Story:  Nate dropped me off at the hospital before my surgery and picked me up afterward.  When he picked me up I was not quite ready to be released, but was sitting up and talking, and drinking a lot of water.  As I poured the last bit of water I wondered aloud how after drinking an entire pitcher of water my mouth could still be so dry.

(new-doctor) Dr. Nate: "Um, pain-killers cause cotton-mouth."

Me:  "Wow, you really are a doctor. I hadn't even thought of that."


Saturday, February 11, 2012

Fallingwater - 1st Floor

I've been in love with this house since the very first time I saw a picture in an art history class in high school.  It completely captured my imagination.  I don't remember when I first learned it was located in Pennsylvania.  It was after I moved here, and possibly I was looking at things to do in Pittsburgh for a long weekend, but once I knew it was here I couldn't leave without visiting.  I'm so glad I did, it is the most amazing place I've ever seen. If there were any doubt that Frank Lloyd Wright was a genius it disintegrates the moment you see this home.

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In 1935, Frank Lloyd Wright drafted the design for Fallingwater for prominent Pittsburghians Edgar and Liliane Kaufman.  FLW did extensive topographical studies of the site and wanted every tree, boulder, and distinguishing feature included.  He felt strongly that form should follow function and he designed with the philosophy that buildings should marry nature and architecture and that he was designing for a specific site, for a specific client, at a specific time.  Fallingwater, especially, is a time capsule of the site, the Kaufmanns, and their lifestyle at this moment.

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The property was used by the Kaufmanns as a summer retreat, and initially had cabins on the property.  They had asked FLW to make better use of the waterfall on the property.  I'm sure they thought he would maximize their view of the falls instead of incorporating it so fully into his design.

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This picture was taken from the bridge.  You can just see the edge of the waterfall on the left (middle-ish).  It's a view of the house that is rarely seen, but the house is absolutely spectacular from every angle.  You can also see that there was a staircase that led from the living room directly into the stream (uber-dangerous in spring runoff), and a small wading pool that was walled off from the stream proper.

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The front door is actually around the back of the house and relatively hidden (another FLW trademark).  You know this was used as a casual summer house because they have soap on a rope outside the front door.  (Although, it's a high-class soap on a a rope!)

The drive way; the front door is tucked into a little grotto opening in the stone wall on the right.
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I went on the very first Behind the Scenes tour of the day, and let me say it was totally worth it.  For almost an hour we were the only people in the house, and we got to see basically every room.  It was well worth it...totally amazing.

The first room we visited was the kitchen.  It was a dream kitchen for the time.
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FLW liked to blur the lines between inside and outside you can see under the tray that is an actual boulder that was on site prior to building the home.

Here it is from the outside:
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The living room:
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This is from the far corner (near the terrace) looking at the front door.  You come in the door and up three or so steps into this huge living area that had living room, dining room, library, and office.

Scenes from the main terrace:
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Back in the main living room there is a huge fireplace. Our guide confirmed that it was/is the main heating source for the whole house.  The chimney, obviously, is built through the central column of the house and radiates heat throughout.  It is extremely hard to get the house to a comfortable temperature in the colder months, but relatively easy to maintain that warmth once established.

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This huge kettle is stored in the hollowed out spot near the fireplace, and swings over it to heat whatever is inside.  It even has a spigot so you could pour directly from it.  Generally used for mulled cider and hot party drinks.

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To the left in the picture is the fireplace (thus the wood pile), you can also see the door that leads to the kitchen *the break in the stone).  To the right is the dining room area.

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The dining area.  FLW designed chairs for the dining area, but Mrs. Kaufman liked these better.  They were made in Italy and she imported the entire set.  The Kaufmanns did buy one chair (in the guest house) that FLW designed for the dining room.  Make your own decision one which is best.

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Mrs. Kaufmann's choice

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FLW design

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Hopefully this gives you a small sense of how FLW controlled the space with horizontal lines leading the eye to the outdoors.  In fact, everything about this room compels you toward the windows, the terraces, the light.  Trust me, you are powerless against the mind control of Frank Lloyd Wright.
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There are five (if I recall correctly) doors that access the out-of-doors in this room.  FIVE! And these are the most unusual:
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These open directly onto the staircase that leads to the river.

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Office

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Another of those awful Italian chairs.

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The front door is just down those stairs and around the corner.

Stairs to the second floor...
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Friday, February 10, 2012

Kirtland

As previously mentioned, I went on a little trip over Thanksgiving weekend and visited Kirtland, OH. Kirtland is just outside of Cleveland and I still cannot believe that I didn't stop there and at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame when I moved to Philadelphia. I stayed in Cleveland, I was right there! It would have negated the need for another 8 hour drive across Pennsylvania! Oh, well...what can you do? As it turns out Kirtland is less than impressive. I'm not sure if it was because I wasn't feeling well, or if it just is generally kind of a let down, but I was expecting the spirit of Nauvoo, and I got ... nada. My original plan was to visit Fallingwater on Friday, drive to Cleveland and visit the Hall of Fame on Saturday, and then either see Kirtland Saturday night or Sunday morning, then drive back to Philly. Instead, I got to Cleveland early enough on Friday to see the HoF that afternoon, and then Kirtland on Saturday morning. That turned out to be incredibly fortunate. Kirtland has a little visitor center and when I got there I was the only visitor. The missionaries suggested I look around at the nativity scenes that they had set up while waiting for a couple of other guests to go on the tour. They had devised this little "I Spy" game for kids to do as they looked, but I played, too. It added a fun element to the viewing - looking for "clues" to the nativities like, a sleepy camel, or the beginning of a new romance. After walking through the nativities a few other people arrived and we actually went back into Historic Kirtland. Historic Kirtland is mostly original(but renovated) housing for the missionaries, the Newell K. Whitney Store, the Whitney House, the hotel, mill, and ashery. We had watched a short movie prior to entering the village and our missionary guide kept retelling scenes from the movie. I found this very annoying. It may be because I was feeling so sick, but I would've been irritated regardless. I mean seriously, WE JUST WATCHED THE MOVIE!!
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It was pretty cool to see where the School of the Prophets was held, and picture Joseph Smith living in these rooms, but incredibly underwhelming after Nauvoo and the spirit I felt there.
 The Whitney House:
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The Johnson Inn:
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We also spent quite a while in the sawmill and ashery and while it was interesting all I could think about was getting out of there. I had felt worse and worse throughout the tour, but didn't want to leave Kirtland without seeing temple. I drove up the hill to the temple (run by the Community of Christ) around noon, to discover the next tour wasn't until 1:30 p.m. The night before I had decided that I wouldn't stay the Saturday in Cleveland, but drive about halfway home and stay somewhere along the way. By this time I just wanted to hit the road (so sick), so I just walked to the temple, took a few pictures, and headed home.
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Saturday, January 14, 2012

Update

I went on a quick trip over Thanksgiving; the primary purpose was to cross the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame off my list, but I thought I'd squeeze in Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater and Kirtland, OH.

Long about Cleveland I started feeling a little, not right, so I decided to drive halfway home the next day (instead of spending another night in Cleveland).  The next day I knew I was sick, and by the time I checked into the hotel I was in a serious amount of pain.  I spent the entire night trying to decide if I should find a local ER to visit, and in fact, did eventually look up the hospital closest to me, but by 6:00 a.m. I started to feel a little bit better.  I talked myself into driving the remaining three hours home and then deciding what I should do.  After all, I already had a doctor appointment scheduled for the next week.

I made it home without incident, but spent the better part of the week in intermittent pain, but, of course, by the time the appointment rolled around I had a killer cold, but wasn't feeling like I might die at any moment.  My doc ran a bunch of tests, and finally got a hold of the ER reports from my adventure in May.  She called a week or so later to tell me there were concerns about the ultrasound results and I should 1) schedule an appointment with a surgeon for thing (a), and 2) call and scheduled a bilateral renal ultrasound at the hospital for thing (b).

Long story short, I spent December feeling the deja vu of medical madness, am scheduled for surgery in a couple of weeks for thing (a) (outpatient - hopefully no big deal), and then need to see a kidney specialist for thing (b) as well.

All while dealing with crashing waves of pain and nausea.  Bottom line:  Fallingwater may be the most awesome place I've ever visited, but I haven't felt up to writing about it (and it deserves a really long entry with lots of photos), Kirtland was just okay, and Christmas was nice, but swallowed up with my medical issues.  The nubbins were super fun and cute, though.  Someday, you'll hear all about it.

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